Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Landscape Mode

Adam Liptak, Supreme Court reporter for the New York Times, is having the same problem that I am: we're not doing a good job conveying the landscape.


In Liptak's case, the landscape is the vast quantity of work that the Supreme Court tackles in a given year, only a small portion of which is ultimately reported to the public. In an interview today with Dave Davies on Fresh Air, Liptak lamented that as a reporter -- this is his first year working for the Times -- the one thing he wishes he could do better is to give readers a more complete sense of the spectrum of the Court's work.

Although Liptak's problem seems common to all reporters -- more news than you have space to report it (or than your readers are that interested in) -- his comment struck me tonight as I was driving home from dinner here in Lubbock. The sun was just about to drop below the horizon, the car windows were wide open thanks to the cool (79-degree) weather, and the sky was vaaaaast over the flat highway. And dammit, I thought, there's really just no good way for me to convey how impressive this is.

(Below is one attempt that I found on Flickr. Not bad, but 1024 x 628 pixels still just doesn't do the scene justice. No Supreme Court pun intended, I swear.)


One thing I do find helps give a sense of scale out here is the miles and miles and miles of wind farms that I drove by this afternoon as I traveled from Abilene to Lubbock.


At this point, we've probably all driven by a few of the large wind turbines that show up in bunches along the PA Turnpike or alone at the back of a farm. But have you ever seen miles and miles of them in a row, with one row behind another behind another? For a solid 30 minutes, driving at 80 MPH, all I could see were wind farms. There must have been hundreds of turbines.

(Sorry the photos above and below are pretty crappy, but a) I was driving and b) I was driving really fast and c) It was kinda rainy out. Photo improves if you click to expand it.)



In fact, my friend Ken reports that depending on which farm I was near, there were up to 250 turbines. Ken works for Gamesa, the Spanish wind energy company that built many of the farms out here in west Texas. (Interestingly, Gamesa houses its major U.S. operations in old U.S. Steel factories, just north of Philadelphia.) In a txt to me, Ken said, "When I go on [wind farm] site, all I hear is a low basal whoosh."

Here are a few pieces of turbine lying on their side just off the road in Sweetwater, TX. They look like pieces of the space shuttle, both in size and form.


Imagine that the Texas landscape fits miles and miles of these wind farms, yet the sky is still a vast un-interrupted space. Perhaps that helps give a sense of the scale out here.



On a sidenote, NPR and PBS have been running a series called Generation Next, about 18- to 25-year-olds trying to start their lives in a crappy economy. A few weeks ago, Judy Woodruff reported a great piece about one man's decision to work in wind energy vs. working in oil in Oklahoma. It's definitely worth 7 mins of your time -- check it out here. This is the guy the Judy reported on, Quentin Johnson.


(Credit: Jory Burson for NPR / Original caption: "Johnson says he doesn't want to climb wind turbines forever. He hopes to one day be a wind farm manager.")




One last item on the topic of wind: scenes from a great little museum that I visited in Abilene. The Grace Museum houses an exhibit by James Surls, called From the Heartland. At first I thought his work resembled flowers, but now I'm thinking Gamesa.

Credit: MT @ James Surls exhibit in The Grace Museum


Credit: James Surls, http://www.jamessurls.com/

Tomorrow I head to the American Wind Power Center here in Lubbock.

A Better Way to Learn U.S. History

Right now, I'm barely keeping up with the laundry and with booking my hotels a day in advance. (The photo below is from a laundromat near Southern Methodist University in Dallas, where I spent the latter half of yesterday afternoon.)


But if you were to join me at my various tourist stops, you'd think I had developed a careful lesson plan of contemporary American history. In particular, a lot of the music stops I hit early in the trip -- Country in Nashville, Rock&Roll and Soul in Memphis, and Blues in Clarksdale -- cover historical periods that overlap with the time periods of the museums I've visited in the last few days -- LBJ Library in Austin, JFK assassination museum in Dallas.

When I visited the LBJ Library on Sunday, for instance, I came across this section...


... about LBJ's handling of 1968, which included MLK Jr assassination (as well as Bobby Kennedy's assassination). But the Stax Museum in Memphis put a finer point on the moment by describing what effect the MLK assassination had on its record label.




As Wikipedia puts it, "While Stax is renowned for its output of African-American music, the label was founded by two white businesspeople, Jim Stewart and his sister Estelle Axton, and featured several popular ethnically-integrated bands, including the label's house band, Booker T. & the MG's." (More commonly known artists that came from Stax include Isaac Hayes and Otis Redding.) The museum spends a lot of time talking about this racial integration and how important it was to the label's success.

MLK's assassination, however, was the catalyst to the record label's rapid decline. I can't remember exactly how the museum described the moment, but my impression was that like the assassination itself, the relationships developed at Stax seemed to come to a remarkably sad and violent end in 1968.



(Be sure to click on the two photos above to expand them. The MLK bust from the LBJ museum is one of my favs, and LBJ's words in the picture below are worth reading.)

Anyway, I'm finding a lot of these historical overlaps along my road trip, and I love being surprised by them. Today and tomorrow's trip to Lubbock and Abilene includes stops at the Buddy Holly Center, the National Heritage Ranching Center, the American Wind Power Center, and Cadillac Ranch. Finding the overlap among these stops might be a bit tougher.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

A Little Bit of Vietnam in Texas

LBJ Library and Museum in Austin is excellent and not just for the
bookstore's not-so-subtle commentary on the Iraq War...

Enterprising

It's hot as hell down here in Austin. We're heading into our second day of 100+-degree heat. Our taxi driver noted, however, that the dog days of summer don't start until July. Ouch.

Naturally, we thought it would be good to spend most of the day outside yesterday and see how much sun our bodies -- skin, in particular -- could stand. For a bunch of Yankees, I'd say we did pretty well.

Here are a few photos from the day, mostly from trails in Zilker Park and the city's Botanical Gardens. Austin also has a great natural spring in the middle of the park, called Barton Spring.








With each step resulting in one extra bead of sweat, we tried to navigate wisely. Alas, parks don't have addresses, and thus, Google Maps becomes a bit less effective. Here's Reed 'pinching' to zoom in...


Ultimately, we made our way to the Botanical Garden, checked out a few dinosaurs, and finally understood what free enterprise really meant.






And no, I'm not referring to that stupid cabin when I highlight free enterprise. Rather, the ability to hail a cab by phone in the middle of a 104-degree botanical garden, have it show up within five minutes, and be whisked away to a fantastic, well-air conditioned Argentinian restaurant for lunch. New that's some free enterprise.





Saturday, June 27, 2009

Handling the Heat

A trip to the Austin Botanical Garden reveals peppers...

Can you Handle the Heat?

Sorry for the lack of posts in the last couple of days. Yesterday I had my first 500+ mile driving day, and combined with my Amex-required, drop-everything, do-not-pass-go drug test, the day took a lot out of me. So to speak.



Reed, Jordan, and Jason successfully made it in to Houston from DC and Philly yesterday. Now we're in Austin, bracing for 104-degree heat today. As if the weather weren't enough, I suspect we'll also try to tackle some smokin' tex-mex. Yummm. Either way, I know every sweaty photo will be super flattering, so I'll be sure to post lots later.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

The Ladies and I escaped the 97-degree Jackson heat by checking out
the Raoul Dufy exhibit at the Mississippi Museum of Art.

Now on to New Orleans.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Shackin up

Sorry, but no blogging tonight from out here on the plantation. I'm
staying at the Shack Up Inn (http://www.shackupinn.com/) here at the
crossroads of the blues, Clarksdale MS. Below is my shack. No wifi,
needles to say, but I hear the BBQ and tamales are where it's at.

Tomorrow night at the W New Orleans - French Quarter. Love me some
extreme hotelling.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Soul Phood

Over the last few days, I've eaten BBQ-style pork or beef three times, waffles/pancakes three times, and had more than my fair share of sweet tea. So when it came time to figure out what to eat for dinner tonight, I was thrilled to find that my iPhone had uncovered lots of Vietnamese food near my crappy motel in Memphis.


Ryan and I have driven by a number of ethnic restaurants along the XXX-Country Tour, opting instead for cuisine a bit more local. But as the iPhone showed with a cluster of Yelp! arrows titled "Saigon Le," "Pho Vietnam," etc., Vietnamese cuisine was the local cuisine in my neighborhood. So I gave it a try.


It is, of course, totally unfair to compare one meal at Pho Vietnam Restaurant in Memphis, TN to three weeks of food that I ate traveling around Vietnam a few months ago. But it's still pretty entertaining, particularly when dining by yourself with nothing better to do. (Ryan flew back to DC this morning.) So, a few observations...

Fruit from the Mekong Delta, just outside of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) --


No fruit from Midtown Memphis, just of I-240, but made up for in quantity --


Funny enough, the Memphis pho (with chicken) tasted quite sweet, in addition to the usual saltiness. Curse you, sweet tea.

My Memphis meal lacked bubblegum, a favorite of mine from Vietnam fast food joint, Pho 24.


But my Memphis meal didn't lack for entertainment: the scruffy guy sitting opposite me drummed for a full five minutes with chopsticks while waiting for his food. No joke.

And compared to the street settings where I occasionally dined in Hanoi...



... Memphis Vietnam didn't have quite the same ambiance.


So what, then, does dining at a Vietnamese restaurant in Memphis have in common with dining in Vietnam?


Equally reliable power grids.

In the middle of my meal tonight, the power went out, air conditioners included. Here's a similar shitshow from Hanoi:


All in all, I thoroughly enjoyed my meal at Pho Vietnam Restaurant here in Memphis. But I promise to get back on the BBQ trail real quick, y'all.

Ryan's Farewell Pound of Butter

I take Ryan to the Nashville airport in an hour, but not before a
proper Southern farewell at the Pancake Pantry (near Vanderbilt). This
is a sweet potato pancake, cinnamon cream syrup on the side. I'm
having the pigs in a blanket, which is sausages (3) wrapped in
pancakes. Jealous?

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Church Music

On the RCA Studio B tour right now in Nashville. Just learned that
there are over 500 recording studios in this town... and over 700
churches. Just listen to Porter and Dolly, and you'll get a lot of both.

Ps. Sorry for the infrequent posting this weekend. I'm caught up in
Country. Lots more to come starting tomorrow.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Tennessee is Tangy

NOW - Original tangy vinegar sauce atop beef brisket at Jack's on
Broadway, Nashville. TN-style sauce is quickly becoming my fav.

Friday, June 19, 2009

Milestones

Off to Churchill Downs for the evening, but already I've had a big day on the road from Pigeon Forge, TN to Louisvile, KY. I'll fill in details later, but here are some choice moments.

By 10:30a, Ryan and I were dining at the original KFC in Corbin, KY...







By 11:30a, I turned my first 1,000 miles (in Richmond, KY)...



And by 2:00p, I picked up my first iPhone, the 3G S, at the Oxmoor Mall just outside of Louisville. Best store experience ever.



Thursday, June 18, 2009

These Pumas are Made For Walking

I don't mean to imply that parts of Dolly(wood) aren't natural, but Ryan and I decided to do nature even more hardcore today by venturing out of Pigeon Forge, TN and into the Great Smokey Mountains. Unfortunately, I forgot how dreadfully unprepared I am for such an adventure.


Lesson #1: Before you drive into a national park, get gas. There are no gas stations in our nation's park system. I suffered for this mistake by 1) having to back track 5 miles to the entrance of the park and 2) paying $3.00/gal (for regular).

Lesson #2: Wear proper footwear.




With zero tread to speak of, my Tiger sneaks left me little room for error trekking through the mountains. Last week, I hiked through muddy Roosevelt Island in flip-flops, so I guess this is an improvement.



But maybe I should just take it as a sign that National Parks aren't quite my gig. After all, I did grow up a city kid.